A Brief History Of Oxford Shoes
Let's quickly talk about the origins of Oxford Shoes. The Black Oxford Shoes have their roots back into the 19th century and the world famous Oxford university.
Students looked for a comfortable, easy to wear version of the Balmoral Boot, culminating in the classic that we know today. Distinguished by its closed lacing system, a pair of oxfords offers a tidy, formal and elegant appearance.
How To Choose Your Black Oxford Shoes
There are many excellent options for Black Oxfords on the market, but also a lot of not so good ones. Buying the correct pair can seem overwhelming, so here are a few tips on how to spot a quality shoe:
1. Material: Full Grain Calfskin
Good Quality Full Grain Calfskin is the best choice for your leather shoes. It is durable, comfortable and has a polished, luxurious appearance. Good leather will also not crack or show loose grain. The best calfskin leathers come from France, Italy and Germany. The Noble Shoe uses the finest Calf from the Hermes owned Tannery Du Puy/D'Annonay, Weinheimer (Germany) and Italian Tanneries such as Zonta.
Textured Leather make the shoes less formal and defeat their purpose. Choose smooth calfskin for your First Black Oxford Shoes.
Lastly, avoid polished "bookbinder" leather as it is cheaper, will age badly and is of lower quality.
2. Construction: Goodyear Welted
The construction of your shoes is very important, as it affects its longevity and ability to repair. The premiere quality construction is called "Goodyear Welted" and it connects the upper part of the shoe to the bottom via a strip of leather called "the welt". Your shoes will last longer if you choose a Goodyear Welted Shoe. For those looking for more advanced constructions, a Goodyear Welted by hand is called "Hand-welted" and the chained construction "Norwegian Welt or Stitch".
The Noble Shoe's Oxfords are all at least Goodyear Welted, with the most advanced constructions also available via Made to Order.
3. Sole Choice: Preferably Leather
A Black Oxford is a fine, elegant shoe and the ideal sole choice would be leather. Leather soles come with exposed stitching, or a hidden channel which is often a sign of higher quality shoes. Our Carlos Santos Handgrade Black Oxfords for example use that type of sole.
Leather soles look thinner and less bulky than a rubber sole, though in certain cases (such as a rainy environment) you can get away with a slimmer, rubber city sole.
4. Toe Shape & Last
The shape of the toe defines the formality of the shoes. Rounder shapes are generally more casual and classic, while almond and chiseled shapes are on the opposite spectrum.
An ideal shape for most people would be a beautiful, sleek medium (slightly almond) shape such as the one on our Carlos Santos 9899 Black Oxfords.
In the end, it is up to your style and preference but I would recommend you to avoid overly round shapes.
5. Price: The $300 - $600 Sweet Spot
The ideal price point for good shoes is between $300 and $600 USD.
Above that, you will start getting some diminishing returns in quality where a shoe will be better, but the average consumer will not notice or care. Above the $600 mark you are getting into handmade, enthusiast territory.
If this is your first venture into quality black oxfords, this is the perfect price/quality ratio. They will use excellent leather, have minimal aesthetic blemishes and good soles, shapes and designs.
Types of Oxford Shoes
There are many types of Oxford Shoes and they get their names depending on the details they have (or don't have). Let's take a quick look:
1. Black Cap-Toe Oxford Shoes
The definitive, most important and versatile all-around oxford shoe is the Cap-Toe Oxford.
It is a minimalist, elegant and classic style with no broguing and the easiest, most important shoe for you. If you are new to quality shoes, this is the one to choose.
Shop Carlos Santos 9899 Handgrade Black Oxford Shoes
2. Wholecut Oxford Shoes
Wholecut Oxford Shoes (also known as one-cut in France) are made from a single piece of leather and a backseam at the back of the shoe.
Essentially they are similar to the Cap-Toe oxford, without the Cap-Toe.
It is probably the most formal of the Oxford Shoe family but that also makes it a bit less versatile. It should not be your first or only pair of shoes, but it is not the worst option either.
3. Brogue Oxfords
Broguing refers to the "punched holes" that you see on certain shoes. if you take one of the previous categories and add broguing, you get a Brogue Oxford. Brogues can also be other types of shoes, such as Derbies, Monk Straps and Chelsea Boots.
The amount of broguing also denominates the name of the model. You have a quarter brogue (minimal broguing), semi-brogue (more broguing) and wingtip brogue (or full brogue).
The more broguing on a shoe, the less formal it becomes. If you are on a country setting, a brogue is not necessarily a bad option.
How To Care Of Your Black Oxford Shoes
It is not enough having a beautiful pair of Black Oxfords, you need to take good care of them too! Here are some tips to keep them in top shape:
1. Shoe Trees
A pair of Cedar Shoe Trees will keep the shape of your shoes in the best possible condition. The Noble Shoe is the only store in the world offering Lasted Luxury Shoe Trees for Carlos Santos Shoes.
2. Avoid The Sun & Heat Sources
If your shoes get wet or dirty, wipe with a damp cloth gently and use a proper horsehair shoe brush.
Avoid leaving your shoes next to heat sources (heaters and radiators) or direct sunlight as it will dry the leather and potentially crack it.
3. Shine The Right Spots
Shinning your shoes is an excellent way to look even more dashing. Few things speak more than a man with mirror-shined shoes.
However many people over-polish their shoes, or polish the wrong spots. Polishing flex points (where your feet bend) will crack the shine and leave white residue of excess polish.
Instead, focus on polishing the toe, bottom sides and back of the shoes for an excellent finish.
Conclusion
Every man needs a quality Leather Black Oxford Shoe. With timeless style, versatility, formality and elegance, they are suitable for most occasions. Investing in a high quality Goodyear Welted Black Oxford Shoes such as Carlos Santos will ensure it will look good for years to come with proper care.
Shop All Men's Leather Oxford Shoes At The Noble Shoe.
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